Why We Replace Calipers With Your Brake Service
Your brakes always get a workout, whether you’re picking up the kids from practice or heading out into the hills. Every time you press on that brake pedal or your vehicle’s traction control, stability control, or crash avoidance systems are activated, a host of hydraulics and mechanisms work in unison to bring your vehicle to a solid stop.
Because of this, when brakes are worn out, you want to replace more than just the worn-out brake pads. Here’s why.
Calipers Make Your Brakes Work
Yes, there are a lot of other moving parts that go into your braking system, but the calipers provide the clamping force that make it all happen. They take the pressure from your brake pedal and apply it to your brake pads. That, in turn, causes the friction to slow down your vehicle.
Les Schwab Tip: Learn more about brake types in our Complete Guide to Disc Brakes and Drum Brakes.
Sure, a new set of brake pads give you a quick fix to worn brakes. But, we’ve learned over the last 30+ years and thousands of brake repairs that replacing just the pads often leads to other braking issues, such as brake pedal pulsations, brake squeaking or squealing, or worn rubber seals. All of this can cause uneven or faster wear of your brake pads over time.
Built-up grime on your caliper pistons and slides, which become more exposed as your brake pads are wearing thin, can cause caliper malfunction if not addressed when pads are replaced. This short video demonstrates what happens when only the brake pads are replaced and the caliper pistons are forced back into the bore.
The Important Details
Calipers include a handful of parts, including the pistons, piston seals, caliper hardware, and dust boots. To work, all the moving parts in the caliper need to be clean and smooth. Here’s the role that each plays in stopping your vehicle.
- Piston seals flex as the piston moves out. They pull the piston back into the caliper housing. This small part can cause a lot of big issues if they’re not replaced with the brake pads.
- Dust boots protect the caliper from debris and other road grime and dirt. As they get older, dust boots will deteriorate, allowing this grime into the caliper, piston and seal.
- Caliper hardware needs to allow the caliper to float and slide. If the hardware gets rusted or corroded, the pieces can’t perform as well as they should.
Get Complete Brake Service at Les Schwab
Corners aren’t something you want to cut when you’re talking about brakes. When we replace your brakes, you get complete service. This includes premium quality brake pads and remanufactured brake calipers that are as good as the those your vehicle had when it was new.
Remanufactured calipers come with new seals and dust boots, bleeder screws, and hardware, which have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected for quality, performance, and safety.
Bottom line, your car will stop when you hit the brakes. And that’s something we can all appreciate.
Les Schwab Tip: Understand the ins and outs of brake repairs with our Brake Servicing 101: Advice on Making Sure It Gets Done Right.
What Are Tie Rods and When to Have Them Replaced
Steering is an important part of any vehicle. If you can’t steer, chances are you aren’t going to get very far. That’s because every time you use your steering wheel, you’re engaging the tie rods on your car or truck. Whether you’re turning left, right, or going straight, the tie rods help you stay in control of your vehicle. Here are some tips to help you keep an eye (and ear) on your vehicle’s tie rod ends.
Tie Rod Basics
In many vehicles, tie rods connect your steering gear to the steering knuckle. Tie rods are an integral part of your vehicle’s steering system that if worn can cause tire wear and handling problems. That’s why a visual inspection can be worthwhile.
Symptoms Your Tie Rods are Failing
Before your tie rods wear out, you’ll likely see, feel, or hear some of these symptoms.
- Steering wheel wandering. You might notice some ‘play’ in your steering wheel. In other words, if you feel a bit out of control, you may want to have your front-end parts checked, including your tie rod ends.
- Unusual and uneven tire wear. Look at the tread of your tires for uneven wear. This could simply mean your vehicle is out of alignment, but could also indicate loose tie rods that should be addressed before doing an alignment.
- Strange sounds. In some cases, if you hear quick, sharp sounds or thuds from your front wheels as you turn, you might consider having things checked out.
Get Your Free Inspection
The pros at your local Les Schwab can perform a free visual inspection of your steering and suspension components. All to help you decide if your vehicle needs an alignment or if your tie rods, or other steering and suspension components are worn.Find Nearest Store
Never Ignore These 8 Warning Signs of Brake Problems
When you notice a noise related to braking, a difference in braking performance, or a burning smell while driving, get a brake check right away.
Brake servicing is one of those routine maintenance chores you just cannot ignore. Brake parts have a life span and they do need to be regularly serviced and sometimes replaced to work properly.
Fortunately, your car or truck usually gives you some clear signals that your brakes are due. Sometimes they’re harmless noises that don’t require repairs or have simple fixes. Other times not.
Your brakes are one of the most important safety components in your vehicle. So if you notice any of the following common warning signs of brake issues, it’s time to get a professional to check your car, truck or SUV pronto. You’ll drive safer and head off more expensive damage.
1. Brake Light On
When one of the red or yellow brake indicators on your dashboard lights up it may mean you’re just due for an inspection. It could also be your vehicle’s smart electronics alerting you to a problem.
An engaged parking brake could also cause the light to go on. Be sure it’s fully released to confirm that’s not the issue. (And read up on what all your dashboard brake lights mean.)
2. Squealing, Squeaking or Grinding Noises
Hearing a Metallic Squeal While You’re in Motion?
If you start hearing a high-pitched noise that stops when you apply the brakes that’s likely the sound of the brake pad wear indicators. They’re made of steel so they make this sound when they start contacting the rotor.
They’re letting you know that your pads are worn out and need to be replaced before you get rotor damage, which can be an expensive fix.
Grinding Sound When Brakes Are Applied?
Grinding that you also feel in the pedal could mean a number of things. There could just be some gravel or a rock caught in the caliper unit, easily remedied.
But you may have gone too long without brake servicing. The brake pads may be worn through, and you’re hearing metal on metal that could be creating grooves in the brake rotor. Not good.
Grinding could also be an indicator of lack of lubrication in vehicles with rear drum brakes. The brake shoe (the component that presses on the rotor to slow the vehicle) could be scraping on metal contact points like the backing plate, due to rust.
If you hear any of these sounds, get your brakes looked at right away to head off more expensive problems.
3. Wobbling, Vibration or Scraping When Braking
Shaking in the steering wheel or vibration when you apply the brakes may be the result of an uneven rotor.
Brake rotors are big discs that sit inside of the wheels. When you hit the brake pedal, the brake pads hug the rotors, slowing them and your vehicle. You want rotors to be smooth and completely even in thickness.
Over time and thousands of wheel revolutions, it’s normal for the rotor surface to get slight variations. Rust can also sometimes develop. During brake servicing, the face of the rotor is often trued (smoothed and evened out) to correct these flaws.
This work has to be done exactly to your vehicle’s specifications. The tiniest differences in disc thickness — we’re talking thousandths of an inch, about three sheets of paper in width — can cause a wobbly feeling when you brake.
An uneven rotor surface may also cause the rotor to hit one of the brake pads as it spins, causing some of the pad material to transfer onto the rotor in that spot. Then you’ll feel shaking when braking, as the pad hits that bump in the rotor.
Another possible cause of rough braking is the brake caliper not releasing properly. The job of a brake caliper is to squeeze the brake pads against your brake rotors, which slows your vehicle down. It’s the motion of the piston inside the caliper unit that causes this contact.
Due to wear from heat or road debris, the piston can get sticky. It may not retract the pads back into the full “off” position when you let up on the brake pedal.
A fourth cause of bumpy braking could be damage to your brake components from improper wheel lug nut installation. (The lug nuts are the big bolts that clamp your tire and wheel onto the hub of your car.)
Any time tires are removed, it’s crucial for the lug nuts to be put back on in the right order, evenly, at just the right tightness (torque). It has to be done in a star pattern, with just the right pressure. If not, you’ll get uneven, premature rotor wear and be back for service sooner rather than later.
4. Leaking Fluid
If you’re experiencing a soft brake pedal, have a service technician look for fluid leaking from the master cylinder or elsewhere in the brake system.
The master cylinder is the unit that creates the power for your brakes. It has a reservoir like the one for your wiper fluid that contains brake fluid.
When you apply the brakes, this fluid is pushed through thin piping, creating hydraulic pressure. If fluid is leaking from this system, there may not be enough power to force the brake pads to clamp hard to the rotors.
5. Spongy or Soft Brake Pedal
If you notice a difference in the resistance in the brake pedal — it feels “softer,” or sinks all the way to the floor mat when you press on it — it’s a sign you need immediate service. There could be air or moisture in the braking system or a problem with the master cylinder. Generally, in autos with power brakes the pedal should stop 1 to 1 ½ inches from the floor. If you have manual brakes, the pedal should stop more than 3 inches from the floor.
6. Car Pulling to One Side When Braking
This could be caused by a brake hose gone bad or a caliper problem. One brake caliper may be applying more or all the pressure during braking, resulting in unbalanced stopping.
7. Burning Smell While Driving
A sharp, chemical odor after repeated hard braking on steep roads is a sign of overheated brakes or clutch. Pull over immediately in a safe place, check your parking brake to make sure it’s fully released and allow the brakes to cool. If you don’t, you risk heating up the brake fluid to boiling, which can cause brake failure.
If there’s any smoke coming from a wheel, it may be a stuck brake caliper and possibly unsafe to continue driving on without repairs.
8. Bouncing Up and Down When You Stop Short
If your vehicle rocks or bounces with sharp braking, it’s probably not a brake problem at all. Your shock absorbers may need to be replaced.
Not every brake noise or symptom is going to cost you. It could be a harmless squeak from certain types of material in brake pads. There may be dust or moisture somewhere in the braking system that isn’t causing damage. You may just need to add new brake fluid.
But you need to be sure.
Brake parts wear out over time. Self-diagnosing symptoms or delaying brake servicing could put you and your passengers at unnecessary risk. And like with a lot of automotive issues, if there is a problem, the longer you put it off the more you risk big repair bills.
Brake problems far from home are a real inconvenience. Get a free brake check before your next road trip. Find the closest Les Schwab Tires and come on by.
How to Jump-Start a Car
There’s a right way and a wrong way to jump-start a vehicle. Doing it wrong can damage your battery or other electrical components. Learn how to do it correctly in this Les Schwab Quick Tips step-by-step video. We show you:
- The proper order for connecting and disconnecting jumper cables.
- How to keep the cables clear of hot engine areas.
- What to do once the dead car starts.
The main safety concern around jump-starting isn’t the electrical current. Jump-starting your battery in the rain, for example, doesn’t put you at risk of shock. Passing vehicles are a bigger issue. Be sure to stay out of the path of traffic and use flares or reflective triangles if you have them when it’s rainy or dark out.
It’s Not Just Hype! Lift and Leveling Kits Add Height and Heft.
The vehicle you drive says a lot about who you are. If you’re happy with the way the front end on your F-250 sits 2-inches lower than the back, or you’re content owning a standard Crosstrek or Jeep, you’re all set. But for those who want a more customized, personal look and some added ground clearance for off-road and overlanding excellence, lift and leveling kits are the way to go. Especially with Les Schwab standing behind every lift and leveling kit we install with a full parts-and-labor warranty.
What’s the Difference Between Lift and Leveling Kits?
Lift kits increase the height of both the front and back of a vehicle, giving your crossover, SUV or truck a more customized look. Most options allow you to raise a vehicle anywhere from 2 to 4-inches. With certain vehicles, there are options that offer up to 6 to 8-inches of lift.
A leveling kit is designed to raise the front of a truck so that it’s level with the back, eliminating the nose-down look (also known as the factory rake). Many new trucks are designed with a rake to ensure they are level when hauling heavy loads.
Leveling Kits vs. Lift Kits
Depending on what you want to accomplish, a leveling kit allows you to eliminate the nose-down look of most trucks and allows for a larger wheel and tire, while a lift kit gives your vehicle more clearance, a heftier look, and the option to install even larger wheels and tires.
What Should You Choose?
That depends on what you drive, what look you’re going for, and how much lift you want. Some of the more common options include:
Truck and SUV Leveling Kits
If you’re driving a full- or mid-size truck or SUV, a leveling kit can add a nice, rugged stance to your vehicle. This option is quick, easy, and affordable. Just tell us what you want, and we’ll show you all the options.
Overlanding Lift Kits
It’s all about the journey, right? It’s also about how you look during your daily commute (even if you’re not driving a truck). Adding just a little more height to your offroad crossover or SUV will give it an extra bold stance and added clearance to venture further into the wilderness. Stop by your local Les Schwab and we’ll show you all of your customization options, order everything you need if it’s not already in stock at the store, and get it installed.
Full-Size Lift Kits
When you’re ready to take the plunge and dominate the road as well as your worksite, nothing says rugged and hard-working like a truck that’s been lifted 4- to 8-inches depending on the application. Once you get that done, you’ll have the option of choosing bigger tires and wider wheels to showcase your ride.
Les Schwab Takes Care of All the Details
When we install a lift or leveling kit on your vehicle, we’ll double-check the suspension, brakes, shocks, steering, and alignment. We’ll also perform a retorque and recheck your alignment a few miles down the road, just to ensure everything is perfect.
Get Your Lift and Level Done Right
Giving your vehicle more clearance and a better stance is an easy update when you know what you’re doing. The pros at Les Schwab have been lifting and leveling trucks, crossovers, and SUVs for years. Stop by and tell us what you want to do to your vehicle and we’ll show you how to get it done.
Schedule an Appointment
When to Get Your Car Alignment Checked
There’s a fine line between being in or out of alignment. Even a slight variation in the direction that any of your four wheels are facing can impact your gas mileage, tire wear, and safety. You might not even know your vehicle is out of alignment until the damage is done. Here are some tips on when to get your alignment checked and what to look for between those free inspections.
Get Your Alignment Checked Twice Per Year
Most people wouldn’t miss an oil change or other routine maintenance. Getting those things done can add to the longevity of your vehicle and can save you money. Getting your alignment checked twice a year should be another part of your car-care schedule.
Winter driving over ice ruts, potholes, and rough roads, as well as impacts with curbs and other road debris during other times of the year, can throw off your vehicle’s alignment. Two of the best times to have your alignment checked include early spring and fall. If you can only make it in once per year, schedule your alignment check for the spring, that way you’re ready for all of your summertime adventures.
The pros at your local Les Schwab can do a free visual inspection of your vehicle’s alignment. If we see anything amiss, we’ll suggest a more comprehensive alignment check. If there’s nothing wrong with your alignment, we’ll send you on your way.
Normal Wear Can Also Affect Your Vehicle’s Alignment
Usual driving conditions and normal wear and tear on your vehicle, including your daily commute on the highway, can affect your alignment. Plus, any time you get new tires, lower or lift your vehicle, replace suspension parts that affect the tire angles, or you’ve had a fender-bender, it’s a good idea to have your alignment checked. Get into your local Les Schwab if you notice pulling to one side as you drive, or the steering wheel is off-center when you’re driving straight.
Les Schwab Tip: If you notice one or more of your tires wearing more quickly than the others, your vehicle could be out of alignment.
Passengers and Gear Can Affect Your Alignment
Adding uneven weight, such as tools, sandbags for winter traction, or carrying heavy loads for an extended period can throw your vehicle out of alignment. That includes truck toolboxes and accessories that affect the height or weight of your vehicle.
Yes, Alignments are Necessary
Check out the article Do I Really Need an Alignment for a more in-depth look at the causes and parameters of a properly aligned vehicle. In it, you’ll learn about alignment measurements, tire angles, as well as some of the issues an out-of-alignment vehicle can cause.
Getting it Straight
A vehicle that’s properly aligned handles correctly, achieves optimal fuel efficiency, and maximizes your tire life. When one of your tires is even slightly out of alignment, it is essentially skidding. This makes that tire wear out faster. It’s also the reason your vehicle might pull or wander to one side. This can waste fuel, cost you money, and cause safety concerns. Plus, it can add unnecessary wear-and-tear to your car or truck.
When your vehicle needs to be realigned, the experts at Les Schwab will do one of two types of alignments. These include:
- 4-Wheel Alignment. This is for vehicles that have adjustment capability at all four wheels, common on most front-wheel drive, all-wheel drive, passenger cars, SUVs, and crossover vehicles.
- Thrust Alignment. This is for vehicles that have an adjustment capability only available on the front axle. This includes larger trucks and SUVs with solid, rear axels.
Remember, getting your vehicle back in alignment will not put tread back on your tires or fix any damage done to your vehicle’s suspension or other steering components. That’s why it’s vital you have your alignment checked at least once per year (twice per year is ideal).
Check out our list of Alignment FAQs for some quick answers to common questions.
Schedule Your Free Visual Alignment Check
The pros at your local Les Schwab can take a look at your vehicle’s alignment and let you know if you need any repairs. If everything looks good, it won’t cost you a thing. If you do need an alignment, we’ll get the job done right and send you home with our Best Alignment Value Promise, which includes a 30-day guarantee and a warranty on all labor costs.
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These 3 Useful Driving Tips Will Help Extend Your Brake Life
Follow these good driving habits to help you get the most mileage between brake service:
1. Plan Ahead
Instead of stomping on the brakes just before the stop sign, traffic light or turn, slow down well before the stop. Then the engine does some of the work, reducing wear and tear on your brakes. On the highway, lift your foot off the gas pedal as soon as you see brake lights ahead.
2. Use the Right Braking Method in the Mountains
If headed downhill or over the pass on dry pavement, drive in lower gears. Here’s how: Put your vehicle in the gear that allows you to travel at the safe speed when you start down the incline. Then apply the brakes intermittently with light pressure for about five seconds if your car speeds up, so you maintain the right speed. As in #1, this will let the engine do some of the work.
Note: This only slightly increases wear and tear on your engine. In normal driving, the “front face” of the gears and transmission wear down. With this kind of engine braking, the “back face” of the transmission does the work. You rarely engage the back face, so it’s a good trade between transmission and brake wear.
By balancing engine braking and pumping your brakes, you allow your brake system to cool. Riding the brakes down a long hill generates friction (which creates the stopping power you need). It also creates heat as your brake pads are in constant contact with the rotor. The longer the hill, the more friction and heat you generate, and the greater the wear on all brake system components — pads, shoes, fluid, brake calipers, rotors or drums and hoses.
It’s also a safety issue: Too much heat can also heat brake fluid, causing brake pedal fade, right when you need your brakes most.
Don’t use this technique when you are driving downhill in icy or slick conditions. Start at the top of the hill as slowly as possible and double the distance you’d normally give between you and the driver ahead. Assuming you’re driving a passenger vehicle (not a big rig), leave your auto in normal drive gear and use light, steady pressure on the brake pedal to maintain the right speed.
This allows your antilock braking system (ABS) to kick in instantly if you lose traction. When you use your engine for braking by downshifting, only your drive tires slow the car. (Your drive tires are the front two in a front-wheel-drive auto, back tires in a rear-wheel drive, and all tires if you’re driving an AWD or 4WD vehicle). If the drive tires lose traction and your car starts to slide, the ABS won’t engage and you can lose control.
If you use the brakes instead, the ABS is ready to engage. ABS maintains traction by making sure all four tires slow at the same rate when you apply the brakes. You’ll minimize fishtailing and be able to steer in the proper direction. (Read more about how ABS works.)
3. Follow the Three-second Rule
Pick a stationary object even with the car in front of you — a sign, a building, or a side road all work well. Then count to three. If you pass that object before you get to three, you need to back off and leave more space.
Remember driver’s ed? It was all about defensive driving and safe following distance. This style of driving is not only safest; it’s the easiest on your brake system. Stop-and-go traffic puts high demands on your brakes and decreases brake pad life. You can reduce the wear on your brakes by leaving enough space between you and the car ahead so you don't have to tap the brakes as often.
Save Your Brakes: Drive Smart
Brake pads, shoes, drums and brake rotors will eventually need service for regular wear and tear. Be sure to follow your owner's manual guidelines. If you think something’s wrong with your brakes, or one of your dashboard brake indicators is lit up, don’t wait to get your brakes checked.
Bottom line: Drive defensively, drive smart, and you’ll extend the life of your brakes.
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A Simple Guide to Wheel Finishes
Custom wheels and rims come in a dizzying number of designs to suit just about any style or performance you’re jonesing for. There are thousands of combinations of metal finishes, spokes, colors, polishes and sizes.
A good start to narrowing down your choices is to understand the types of wheel finishes, how the wheel surface is treated to achieve the color and polish type that suits your style. Each has its own attributes and different degrees of maintenance. Here are the six most common types.
This is the classic, mirror-reflective wheel style. Chrome plating has been the traditional method for creating that bling look many drivers want for their ride. Wheels are coated with several layers of copper, nickel and chromium for a highly reflective appearance. This provides the brightest, showiest look of all finishes, nearly as reflective as a mirror.
This finish doesn’t need a protective topcoat to prevent rust. Chrome wheels can also be treated with translucent paints for a variety of color choices.
Care: Chrome wheels require regular cleaning with mild soap and water and soft rags (never an abrasive like steel wool, which will scratch the finish). Maintain the finish with Mothers® Chrome Polish or Instant Detailer. If you are running chrome wheels in wintery locations where deicers like salt and magnesium chloride are used, you should clean them frequently. This will head off finish problems like pitting and corrosion. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
A dry paint and heat technique is used for a durable, attractive wheel that resists rust, heat, chips and scratches. Fine ground particles of color and resin are electrically charged and sprayed onto the surface. Then the wheel is heated in a curing oven which bakes on the finish.
There are loads of color choices for powder-coated wheels. However, this finish is “one and done.” Recoating in a new color later isn’t recommended.
Care: Use soap and water or a mild, non-acidic wheel cleaner and a microfiber or terry cloth. Never use tarnish or rust removal products or bleach. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
Machined, Clear-coated Finish
Clear coating is used as an additional touch for many wheel finishes. It can be used on raw aluminum wheels or painted wheels.
Some bare metal wheels are machined and then clear coated: A thin layer of metal is shaved off the wheel face for a bright shine, leaving small lines like what you see on a CD. Then the wheel is coated with a clear sealant for protection from corrosion. The clear-coated finish can be appealing for those who like a combination of a machined look with painted accents while providing a protective topcoat. It also assures the wheel paintwork will stay as good as new for years, as long as it’s not nicked or scraped.
Care: Use only mild soap and water or water-based wheel cleaners, not metal polish or any acidic wheel cleaner. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish. Use Mothers® Foaming Wheel and Tire Cleaner.
PVD (physical vapor deposition) wheels come with a shine that rivals conventional chrome plating. First, the wheel is coated with primer. Then a very thin metallic coating is applied to the wheel in a vacuum chamber using an advanced electrical bonding method. Last, a clear acrylic powder coating is sprayed on to seal and protect the finish.
There are some benefits to a PVD finish. These wheels are much lighter than chrome-plated wheels, which may get you more nimble driving responsiveness and better fuel economy. They’re available in lots of color tones. The clear coat helps to seal out winter deicing road chemicals, so with proper maintenance, these wheels are a good year-round choice.
And they offer meaningful environmental benefits. The process doesn’t use hexavalent chromium, contains 100 percent of emissions and consumes less energy.
Care: Drive-through car washes, high-pressure washing and chrome cleaners, which contain very harsh acids, could damage the topcoat — and void your wheel warranty. Wash with mild soap and water only and a soft cloth, sponge or microfiber towel. Follow with Mothers® All-Chrome Quick Polish Detailer and Protectant. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
Bare-polished Finish, With or Without Top Coating
Raw aluminum wheels can be hand-polished with a buffer so the surface is completely smooth, then clear coated for a rich shine. Wheels can also be machine-polished to a near-mirror shine with no top coat applied. These are popular finishes for street rod and car enthusiasts who like to show off their ride.
These finishes offer some advantages over chrome-plated wheels since they don’t add weight to the wheel, which could improve fuel efficiency and handling. Polished wheels can also easily be repolished to restore their like-new condition if they lose their luster over time.
Care: If they have no protective top coating, these wheels require regular cleaning, polishing and waxing to keep them from oxidation and pitting. Wash with Mothers® Wheel and Tire Cleaner and polish with Mothers® Polish. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
Wet paint is used for this finish, followed by a clear topcoat to protect the paintwork. The color tones and polishes available in painted wheels are pretty much endless, from silver tints to matte black to hot pink, or matched to your vehicle’s body paint color.
Care: Use mild soap and water and a microfiber or terry cloth. Follow up with Mothers® Foaming Wheel and Tire Cleaner. Clean brake dust off regularly to prevent damage to the finish.
Wheel Shine Options
Finally, in case these aren’t enough options for you, you can customize the type of shine you like. Wheels can be made with matte (a flatter shine), gloss (high shine), satin (in between matte and gloss) and mirror (reflective) options. You can mix and match these on different parts of the wheel face.
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Brake Servicing 101 - Advice on Making Sure it Gets Done Right
In recent focus groups, people who had paid anywhere from $50 up to $1500 for brake repairs on their cars were interviewed about their level of satisfaction. Regardless of cost, none had complaints.
Why? Because their brakes worked afterward. But there’s more to it.
Here are some basics about brake servicing and what to look for in a reputable shop, so you’re treated fairly — and so the work gets done right the first time.
Brake Service: No Hard and Fast Rules on How Often
It’s hard to pin down the proper interval between brake service. But there are some basic tests:
- Don’t take chances with brake performance. You should never wait to get a brake check if you think something isn’t right with your brake system.
- Understand that you can't easily have a look yourself, because inspecting brakes means putting the vehicle on a lift, removing the wheel, and sometimes taking apart the components.
- You can’t plan on needing brake service on a set schedule, say every 20,000 or 50,000 miles. Brakes can wear out after 18,000 or 60,000. It depends on individual driving habits and road conditions.
Factors in Brake Wear
Driving habits. Are you regularly hauling a trailer or heavy loads? Or do you tend to be a prudent driver who keeps lots of distance between you and the car ahead?
Where you drive. If you’re in stop and go traffic in a daily commute, or regularly driving mountain roads, your brakes will wear more quickly. Off-road travel also puts high demands on brakes. Dirt and grime can degrade brake parts. The quality of parts previously installed. Just like any product, brake parts vary in durability and price. And even premium parts won’t last if they’ve been installed wrong.
Six Questions to Ask When Deciding on Brake Repairs
Recommendations and costs for brake service can be all over the map. So don’t be afraid to ask questions about just what you’re getting for your money. For example:
- What’s included? Some shops advertise a low price to just replace brake pads, but if any other problems are discovered the cost goes way up. A good brake job should include flushing old brake fluid, adding new, resurfacing rotors, and adjusting braking mechanisms.
- Turn-around time. How many days will it take for the garage to get you on their schedule? Can they offer same-day service for the work?
- Quality of parts. If your garage buys from an auto parts house, quality control for parts is in the hands of those who aren’t working on your car. These suppliers may buy from one manufacturer with a special on price today, and another tomorrow. Ask what kind of quality control measures the shop has for parts. You just don’t want to skimp on brake components.
- Approach to replacing parts. There are big differences in how brake service and repairs are done. It’s pretty common at most brake repair shops to pull the calipers off, replace the brake pads, and reinstall the unit.
- Warranty. With people holding onto cars longer, a brake repair warranty can mean a lot. Brake pads are going to wear as the brakes are applied, so at some point, your car or truck will need them replaced.
- Trust. You should feel you’re getting straight talk. A good mechanic is always happy to explain repairs by showing you what’s being done, and more than willing to save the parts removed for you to look at.
But there are many parts of the brake system that work just as hard as the brake pads that may need attention. Built-up grit on pistons can result in brake pads not disengaging when you take your foot off the brake pedal — then your brake pads are going to wear faster, or unevenly.
Heat from the action of the piston can break down the rubber seals, creating a leak in the braking system. And that could result in the brakes fading — or not working at all — when you hit the brakes.
The problem is that it’s not easy to inspect all of these parts — like boots, seals, bushings — without full disassembly. Taking everything apart is time-consuming. It also increases the number of things that can go wrong. Shoddy reassembly is a common reason cars have to come back to the shop following a brake job.
Disc Brake Caliper Assembly
A better option is replacing all the brake components with a unit made to your vehicle’s original specifications. This heads off any problem with other parts wearing out before your next brake pad job. Ask your mechanic which approach he uses.
Ask your shop for specifics on the brake warranty before the service. If it’s a lifetime warranty, does that cover only the parts, or the labor, too? Are free brake inspections included?
Do I Really Need an Alignment?
Alignment assures your tires meet the road at the proper angle, your wheels are pointing straight and your tires are centered in the wheel wells. It adjusts the angles of your vehicle’s wheels to original specs for best gas mileage, proper road contact, a smooth ride and longest tire life.
The most common signs of misalignment are pulling to one side while you’re driving, unusual tire wear and a steering wheel that’s off-center even though your vehicle is pointed straight. But these symptoms can have other causes, sometimes simpler and sometimes not.
Steering pull can be caused by road conditions. If the asphalt has grooves that are slightly farther apart than your car’s axles, you may feel a pull as the tires on one side ride slightly higher. If the road is noticeably higher in the center, the vehicle may veer as the tires try to find a level surface.
Torque steer is a pull that happens during acceleration, from a difference in power being delivered to the wheels. A pull only during braking is probably from a caliper on one side sticking and not fully disengaging from the brake disc. A failing tire and improper tire rotation are two more causes of steering wheel pull.
Poor alignment may not be the issue if your steering wheel sometimes tugs in one direction and then the other. A bent or worn suspension part — ball joints, strut bearings or tie rods — could be to blame.
Atypical tire wear may be the result of worn shocks or struts, bushings or springs, or from carrying heavy loads (all of which can also put your vehicle out of alignment). Uneven wear can also be caused by driving on over-, underinflated or imbalanced tires.
An off-center steering wheel can be caused by worn steering or suspension parts. Just getting an alignment won’t fix the root cause.
One last common point of confusion: Vibration while underway is often a symptom of out-of-balance tires, not bad alignment.
When We Recommend an Alignment
An alignment is important to do when:
- You get new tires.
- You lower or lift your vehicle.
- Suspension parts that affect the tire angles are replaced or adjusted.
- You’ve had a fender-bender or a hard impact with a curb or road debris.
- It's been a year since your last one.
Tire stores strongly recommend an alignment after installation of new tires because they want you to get what you pay for: full tread life. They also want to be sure that any defect that becomes apparent during the warranty period is from a manufacturing issue, not from wear that could have been avoided with basic vehicle maintenance.
Lifting or lowering a vehicle will affect your toe, camber or caster angles. So will repair or replacement of suspension and steering parts — struts, shocks, ball joints, tie rods, bushings or control arms. If one of these components is damaged, it’s a pretty good bet your vehicle’s alignment is out of spec. If you don’t fix them before your vehicle is aligned, you’ll soon have the problem recur.
Alignment checks are always advised after any significant impact with a bumper, a curb, a big pothole, an animal or anything else. It may have knocked your vehicle off spec.
Also, get a check annually, or twice yearly if you typically travel on rough roads. Regular checks are important because off alignment isn’t always obvious. The wrong toe angle can go unnoticed and so can atypical tire wear. Cars usually go out of alignment gradually, so you may not realize how much it was impacting drivability, gas mileage or tire wear until it’s corrected.
Tips Before Getting Service
Because the measurements are very fine, misalignment is not something you can see by just eyeballing whether the wheels and tire angles look right. But an experienced tire technician will usually know if you’re overdue for an alignment just by looking at your tire wear.
Here’s what to know if the service is recommended:
- If you have a damaged suspension part, replace it first. Worn or bad parts will put your vehicle right back out of spec.
- The technician may recommend a thrust alignment or a four-wheel alignment. Here’s a primer to understand what they’re talking about.
- Before service, let the tech know you’d like a printout showing what your alignment measurements were prior to the work being done and the final settings for your records. You can verify the job was truly necessary. Here’s an example of what you’ll see.
Measurements Before Alignment:
Measurements After Alignment:
Looking at existing tire wear is one way to identify misalignment but the ideal is to correct your wheel’s positions before you have early and unnecessary tire wear. Regular alignments are part of basic maintenance that helps you get full mileage out of your tires.
Schedule an Appointment
Do I Really Need Brake Service?
Brake problems can be confusing to figure out. Some are harmless with little to no repair needed, such as dust in the braking system that causes squeaking. Other issues indicate likely problems with different car parts, such as a worn belt causing a shrill squeal. Not every sound, sensation or smell means you're due for a brake overhaul, but some do.
In order to diagnose, a mechanic will want to know:
- The nature of noises you’re noticing. Are they squealing, squeaking or grinding? Does it sound metallic?
- Exactly where the noises are coming from.
- What causes a noise to start and stop: Revving the engine while in park? Braking? Accelerating? Going over a bump?
- If there are any smells.
- If you feel a vibration.
- Any changes in brake pedal firmness.
No need to worry about taking the time and paying the money for a brake job before you know whether you need it. Here are some symptoms and their possible causes.
Squealing, Squeaking or Grinding
A continuous grinding squeal when you’re underway that came on suddenly could just be a rock caught between the brake pad and the disc. Some types of brake pad material can cause harmless squeaking. The sound could also be from moisture or dust in the braking system that isn’t doing damage. Or hardware may be in need of lube.
But a constant, high-pitched screech coming from the wheel area while you’re driving, which came on gradually and stops while you brake, is likely the brake pad wear indicator. This is a metal tab that contacts the rotor surface once pads are reaching their minimum. This means you’re due for service.
If it’s a shrill squeal coming from the engine area that varies with engine speed, it could be a worn belt (alternator, power steering, fan, water pump, A/C) that’s slipping on a pulley. However, squealing could also mean a failing alternator or bearings. It may take an expert to tell the difference. Squeaking sounds coming from the wheel area can also indicate worn shocks or other suspension parts.
If you’ve got drum brakes in the rear, excessive brake dust or badly worn shoes can cause grinding sounds.
Vibration or Pull
An unbalanced tire can cause vibration in your steering wheel. It costs little to nothing to fix.
Vibration in the brake pedal or steering wheel felt only during braking points to a brake system issue, such as an uneven rotor surface. If you’ve just gotten brake service, it may be that the rotors weren’t resurfaced. Rough braking could also be from the brake caliper not releasing back into a full off position when you let up on the pedal. A less likely cause is a worn suspension part.
Steering pull to one side during braking could be a stuck caliper, bad brake hose, worn-out brake pads or loose suspension parts. If you’re noticing a vibration right after you’ve had a tire rotation or seasonal swap-out, it may be related to tire rebalancing.
A brake pedal that seems too soft when you hit it can mean either air in the hydraulic system, worn-out brake pads or a fluid leak somewhere in the brake system.
A pungent smell could be from oil burning, especially if you’ve recently had an oil change and some overflowed, or you might be driving with the parking brake engaged.
But if the smell is coming from near your wheels — especially in hot conditions while you’re driving in the mountains — it’s possible you’ve been riding the brakes and they’ve overheated. Or, a brake pad or caliper could be stuck, which often comes along with smoke. (Stop immediately in a safe place and figure out what’s going on so you don’t have brake failure.)
Tips Before Getting Service
Ask questions, read your owner’s manual and be aware of the following if brake servicing is recommended.
Be wary if the mechanic says you need brake service when you have 50 percent pads left. If your shop uses percentages to tell when brakes are due, wait until your pads are down to 15 to 20 percent before scheduling. (Les Schwab Tires measures brake pads in millimeters, not percentages. This helps us be more precise about when service is due.)
Find out what’s included. Make sure they do a thorough inspection and get a written quote that includes pad and rotor measurements.
Ask if rotors should be resurfaced or replaced. This service is necessary if you’ve gone too long between brake servicing and grooves have formed on the surface, brake pad material has collected there causing rough braking or the rotor thickness has become uneven. The technician should measure using a micrometer and inform you of rotor thickness. If rotors are getting down to the minimum, it may be better to replace them.
Yes, brake fluid needs to be replaced. Draining old and adding new fluid extends brake component life. It’s common for moisture to get into the brake system. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and retains water. When water gets into this sealed system, there’s more risk of corrosion of metal parts and poor braking.
Be cautious about cleaning and lubing. Today’s brake systems typically don’t need to be taken apart and washed. The exception is when you’re experiencing brake squeal or squeaking when your pads still have plenty of life in them and no other cause is evident. It could be glazing, the brake pad’s friction surface getting hardened from heat. In this instance, cleaning and lubing moving components can reduce noise and extend brake life.
Bottom line: Brake sounds, smells, vibration or a dashboard light are not things to guess about and hope you’re right. But you’re not in for an expensive repair job for every problem. Get them checked out pronto by a service shop you trust. (Les Schwab Tires does brake inspections for free.)
How to De-Winterize Your RV
Time for camping and summer road trips? While your owner’s manual likely has a list of items specific to your vehicle that should be checked, here’s a checklist of 22 things you should be certain to take care of before your first ramble in your motorhome. The advice will apply to travel trailers, too.
Inspect the Outside
- Check beneath the vehicle for signs of leaking fluids. If you see any stains or puddles, you should take it in for service.
- Look carefully at the tires. When a vehicle is parked for long stretches, tire condition can degrade. Tires can be damaged by sun exposure, weather and pollution. Sitting in one place for too long can also cause a flattened spot to develop on the portion of the tires that has been supporting all the vehicle’s weight. If there’s any cracking or bulging, a tire may need to be replaced. Also, top off the air pressure and test to make sure the lug nuts are secure.
- Even if the tires appear in good condition, repack wheel bearings with grease. It’s important for safety, since the vehicle’s weight rides on the wheel bearings. Do it yourself or come to us.
- Make sure headlights, tail lights, high beams and blinkers are working.
- Clear the exhaust pipe if you blocked it to keep out mice.
- Look over the full exterior, including the roof. You’re looking for peeling paint, cracks and gaps at seams, or rust, all of which will need repair. Don’t forget to check the A/C air filter in case it needs to be cleaned or replaced.
- Roll out and clean your awning, and check them for holes. Don’t wait to repair them; they’ll expand and become a bigger problem if you delay.
Under the Hood
- Tend to the batteries. (Les Schwab Tires does free battery charges and checks.) If your motor home was stored someplace warm, look for corrosion around the battery connections. Clean it off carefully. If your battery fluid is low, get it topped off. If you live someplace that freezes a lot in winter, you probably removed the batteries before storage. Reconnect them, making sure clamps are snug and there's no corrosion.
- Check for rodent damage, cracks and loose hose and wiring connections.
- Check the oil. Moisture can get into the fuel system in cold weather, so consider changing the oil and filter even if you’re not due.
Prepare the Plumbing System
- If you used RV antifreeze to protect the water system from freezing, drain it from everything, including the water heater and holding tanks. (Dispose of it properly to protect fish and waterways.)
- Flush the plumbing thoroughly with clean water: Fill up the fresh water holding tank, turn the water pump on and run all faucets. Make sure water cycles through everything, including the washer, icemaker, outdoor shower and water heater (if it wasn’t bypassed when you added the antifreeze). When you see clear water running through the system, turn off the pump and shut off the faucets.
- Now sanitize the plumbing. Chlorine-free water system cleansers are available, or you can use one-quarter cup household bleach per 15 gallons of water. Close all drains and put drain plugs in place, pour the cleaner into the fresh water tank and fill with water. Turn on the water pump and run water through all hot and cold faucets until you detect the cleanser, then turn off the faucets and pump. Let it sit for 12 hours before draining and refilling with clean water. Repeat until any remaining cleanser is flushed. Make sure to cycle through all tanks.
- Reinstall any water filters that were removed for winter storage.
- Go to a waste disposal site to empty the dirty water you’ve flushed through the system from your gray and black water holding tanks.
Check the Living Quarters
- Once the water system is clean and the water heater is full, check the electrical systems. As your house batteries recharge, you can make sure the fridge is cooling, flip lights on, plug in the toaster, microwave, and coffeemaker, run fans and check power outlets. If something’s not working, try resetting your breaker switches.
- Run the slides out, listening for any cracking or popping sounds. If so, your seals or the slide mechanism may need lubrication or hydraulic fluid may need to be topped off. Also, make sure slides look centered. If not, they may need to be adjusted.
- Open the main propane gas valve, then check to make sure gas appliances are working, including all stove burners. (Also, get a leak test and gas operating pressure test done annually.) Check the water heater, upping the thermostat until the furnace turns on. Try running the refrigerator on gas to make sure it will keep working when you’re underway.
- Inspect the cabin for any signs of mold, rodents, and insects. You may have to wash bedding, cushions or window treatments if there’s been a strong odor trapped inside. If there’s been a pest invasion, find areas they may have gotten in and cover them.
- Verify your safety systems and kits are in working order: smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, flashlights, fire extinguisher, emergency road kit and first aid kit. Replace batteries as needed.
Check Fuel & Brakes
- Start the engine. If you filled up and added stabilizer before storage, you’re probably good to go. Fuel stabilizer can keep fuel fresh for around two years. But if you didn’t, or the vehicle sat for more than a year, it may not want to start. Try adding starter additive to the stale fuel.
- While parked, tap your brakes, making sure you feel the right amount of pressure and the pedal doesn’t sink to the floorboard. If anything seems amiss, have brake pads and shocks examined.
Now you’re ready to hit the road and make some summer memories.
How to Tell If Your Shocks or Struts Are Bad
It’s difficult to know just when it’s time to replace shocks and struts. For one, they go bad slowly, so the reduced ride comfort and road control you’re getting don’t seem out of the ordinary.
Also, there’s no set time or mileage for when aging shocks or struts are due for replacement. You won’t find a set service interval in your owner’s manual.
Third, these parts can be hard to get at, and seeing precisely how worn they are requires expensive disassembly. That’s just not practical or cost-effective.
Bad shocks and struts are diagnosed through other methods. Here’s what to look for as telltales:
- Cupping on tires, especially if a rotation was performed on schedule but abnormal wear is still occurring.
- Suspension bushings problems — cracking, peeling, off-center.
- Active leaking of oil on parts.
- A rougher ride.
- Bottoming out (your vehicle’s body or suspension hitting the ground) when going up a parking garage ramp or backing out of a driveway.
- Longer stopping distance.
- Swaying after a turn or lane change or in cross winds.
- Noticeable bounciness (more than one or two bounces) after going over dips or bumps.
- Nose-diving when you apply the brakes.
What Do Shocks & Struts Do?
Shocks and struts in good condition help your car handle whatever comes at you on the road — bumps, debris, sudden stops, swerving, potholes, wind gusts or sharp turns. They control the side-to-side, front-to-back and up-and-down shifts of the car’s weight and maintain optimal tire contact with the road.
Shocks or struts are hard-working parts. They can go through 75 million cycles over the course of 50,000 miles. Even on well-paved roads, they can move up or down 1,500 to 1,900 times every mile. They are partners with the brakes, steering, suspension, tires and electronic safety systems — anti-lock brakes, stability control and crash avoidance systems — in keeping a vehicle traveling safely on the road. They:
- Maintain tires’ good contact with the road by preventing them from moving up and down too much.
- Contribute to stability as you accelerate, stop and turn.
- Add to ride comfort by absorbing jolts and bumpiness from irregular road surfaces.
- Control a vehicle’s body movement (side-to-side roll, bouncing).
- Help the tread wear evenly for longer tire life.
They don’t help support the vehicle’s weight or any loads, contrary to what many think. The springs do that. But having worn-out shocks or struts creates more work for the springs as well as other important suspension parts. Without the control that a good shock or strut provides, these other parts get overworked, causing fatigue and premature wear.
Shocks and Struts Aren’t Just About a Smooth Ride
Today’s vehicles have highly engineered electronic safety systems: vehicle stability systems, ABS (anti-lock brakes), traction control, collision prevention control and automated braking. These all work together to keep tires in proper contact with the road and provide the most stability.
When you have an unexpected hard stop or swerve, your vehicle’s crash avoidance systems send instant electronic signals to the brakes and other critical components. If ride control parts like shocks and struts are worn, they may not properly respond.
Then the crash prevention systems can’t function as designed and you have less control behind the wheel. Stopping distance increases and brakes and tires wear more quickly. There’s added strain on the springs, which have much more up-and-down and side-to-side action to control.
How Long Do They Last?
It all depends on the amount of wear and tear they get, and that depends on the quality of roads you drive, if you haul loads and how aggressive you are behind the wheel. That’s why periodic inspections are important.
Have a technician check every 12,000 miles, if you get an alignment, when you get new tires, at least once a year and whenever you notice the symptoms above. (Les Schwab Tires typically does visual inspections each time tires get rotated and during pre-trip safety checks.)
You may not notice your ride control has been compromised when these parts are wearing out, because it happens gradually. But shock absorber or strut failures aren’t just bad for comfort. Replacing them when it’s time keeps your auto’s electronic systems and suspension working as they should, extending your vehicle’s life — and keeping you safer on the road.
Schedule an Appointment
How Your Auto Battery Works
Here’s a simple guide to understanding how car batteries work, from the alternator to cold cranking amps to different types of car batteries. Find out:
- How a battery starts your car
- How the battery provides power
- What cold cranking amps are
- How the battery recharges
- Why car batteries die
- What the different types of auto batteries are
How a Car Battery Starts a Car
The first purpose of an auto battery is to provide power for starting your vehicle. It also acts as a surge protector for the car's computer and provides power for short-term use of things like lights, stereo, GPS or wipers when the engine is off.
The car battery is part of the starting system. There are three main components in this system:
- The ignition switch is either the starter button you press or where you insert your key.
- The switch controls the starter relay (also called a solenoid). When you turn the ignition, it sends a small electrical current to the starter relay. This causes a pair of contacts to close.
- When those contacts close, the battery sends voltage to the starter motor, which turns some gears to start the car.
How the Battery Provides Power
The two types of auto batteries — flooded and AGM batteries — use lead-acid technology. A typical lead-acid car battery contains plates of lead alternating with plates made up of other materials, all immersed in an electrolyte solution of about one-third sulfuric acid and two-thirds water.
Turning the ignition triggers the acid in the liquid electrolyte solution to react with the active material on the plates (active material refers to any substance in the battery that reacts with the solution to discharge or recharge the battery). This generates a bigger electrical current. The current travels through the starting system in a chain of reactions that cues the engine to start.
What Are Cold Cranking Amps?
Cold cranking amps (CCA) refers to the amount of power a battery can supply for 30 seconds even at low temperatures. Larger engines require more power to start, as does starting the car for the first time on a cold day.
A high CCA rating is important for standard auto batteries in areas with subzero temperatures, since deeply discharged wet cell batteries can freeze solid in such weather.
How the Car Battery Recharges
The alternator is responsible for recharging your car battery as you drive. This part also supplies power for your car’s electronics when you're underway. It is driven by the alternator belt from the engine. As the belt goes around, it generates electrical current to run your vehicle's electronics. It also sends some current back to the battery to recharge it.
A voltage regulator controls this flow of electricity to keep it even and deliver the right amount of charge to meet needs like running the AC or heater. It also protects the battery from overcharging, which can damage it.
Why Does My Battery Die?
Over the life of a battery, discharge-recharge reactions happen thousands of times. Each cycle wears out the plates a bit, and over time the lead deteriorates. As your car battery loses capacity, cold cranking amps decrease.
Deep discharging, which happens when you use the battery to run the stereo, lights or other electrical systems in your car when the engine is off, is responsible for a good portion of battery failures. Discharging most of your battery's capacity by using it in this manner for too long and then recharging it through driving can cause the sulfur in the electrolyte solution to stick to the lead and create other damage to the plates in the battery.
What Are the Different Types of Auto Battery?
The two most common auto batteries for sale today are standard wet cell batteries and absorbed glass mat (AGM) batteries. Both use lead-acid technology. The differences are in the needs of the car.
Standard Wet Cell Batteries
These are also called flooded, conventional or SLI (starting, lights, ignition) batteries. Some standard batteries have vents that allow for airing out corrosive gases, steam, and condensation (these may be called vented batteries). They have removable caps for adding fluid. Other wet cell batteries are closed systems, with no removable caps.
- Service needs: Occasional simple maintenance including cleaning off corrosion on terminals and topping off the fluid with distilled water if the battery has removable caps. The battery should be visually checked every year. Battery charge should be checked before road trips and after summer before temperatures fall.
Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) Batteries
These are a type of VRLA battery, which stands for valve-regulated lead-acid. They’re sometimes called regulated valve, dry cell, non-spillable or sealed batteries. They are called sealed because they have no removable caps, don’t vent gases and can’t leak any acid. They do have pressure-activated relief valves that open only if the battery overheats during recharging.
Some newer cars, such as those with start-stop technology, require AGM batteries. These batteries will continue to deliver power to a car’s computer and electronics even when the engine isn’t running.
AGM batteries hold a charge longer than standard wet cell batteries. They can tolerate periods of disuse and repeated deep discharging and recharging cycles better than flooded batteries. They have a short recharge period but they can be easily damaged by overcharging. They also perform well in harsh climates with extreme heat or cold.
- Service needs: Charge should be checked before road trips and after summer before temperatures fall.
Wet cell batteries and AGM batteries are not interchangeable — your car requires one or the other.
Batteries for Anything You Drive
Les Schwab is well known for having the West’s largest selection of tires. Here are four reasons to come to us for batteries as well.
1. Vast Selection
We have an inventory of quality batteries to power just about anything that rolls:
- Cars, light trucks and SUVs
- Commercial vehicles and heavy-duty trucks
- Motorhomes/RVs, fifth-wheels and other campers
- Boats, including personal watercraft
- Off-road vehicles (four-wheelers/quads and side-by-sides)
- Farm tractors and equipment
- Golf carts
2. More for Your Money
What we say about tires also goes for our batteries: If we can’t guarantee it, we won’t sell it. Our best-in-the-business battery warranty includes a replacement program. We’ll replace standard batteries that are deficient absolutely free for a period between 12 to 24 months, depending on the battery. For motorcycles, golf carts and the like we provide replacements for failed batteries up to six months after purchase. The period for RV, commercial and marine battery replacements extends for one year.
And if your battery fails any time before its expected life after that, we'll refund you the difference. For some batteries, that can mean coverage extending up to seven years.
You’ll also get free auto battery and charging system inspections with your purchase. And you can stop by for a free battery charge at any Les Schwab whenever you want.
3. Expert, Friendly, World-class Service
Our technicians are equipped with state-of-the-art battery diagnostic tools and are well trained in batteries and charging systems. A problem you suspect is being caused by your battery may actually be something wrong elsewhere in the charging system. (Read more.)
We check any vehicle battery charge for free, whether you bought it from us or not. We’ll give you an honest answer on whether you need a new battery. If you do, one of our service techs will help you decide what battery is best for the job, the vehicle and your budget. Then we’ll install it quickly so you can get on your way without delay.
4. Hundreds of Locations
You can buy, get service on or redeem a warranty for Les Schwab batteries at any of our 480-plus locations across the West. Not sure if you need a new auto battery? We’ll check your battery’s charge while you wait — for free.
For a quality battery backed by a great warranty, come to a Les Schwab Tires near you.
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Brake Service FAQ
The Basics on Brakes
Why are your brakes squealing?
If your brake light is on, your brakes are squeaky or grinding, if they feel like they are pulsing or grabbing, or they feel “soft” when you hit the brake pedal, don’t wait on a brake check. It not only can be dangerous to ignore such warning signs: small brake problems that are left unrepaired can lead to expensive damage to other parts of your braking system.
The only way to determine if brake noise is harmless or hazardous is to have a thorough brake inspection.
Les Schwab offers the latest diagnostics and repair equipment in the industry for most types of brake systems. Our technicians are trained to get disc or drum brakes working properly on whatever you drive — passenger car, SUV, or light truck, old or new models.
Disc Brake Repair and Services
- Install professional-grade brake pads
- Install Professional Grade Raybestos calipers*, or the equivalent
- Resurface rotors
- Repack wheel bearings when serviceable
- Install new front seals when serviceable
- Replace brake fluid
- Adjust brake components as needed
* PG PLUS™ PROFESSIONAL GRADE Premium loaded calipers are built to be consistent with Federal Safety Standards for quality, performance and safety. Raybestos provides their loaded calipers with Professional Grade premium disc brake pads to satisfy your braking needs.
What do brake pads, rotors and calipers do?
Brake pads are metal plates bonded with sturdy cushioning friction material. The pads are located on each side of the brake rotors — the flat, rotating discs that are attached to the vehicle’s wheels. When you press the brake pedal, the caliper — essentially a clamp housing the pistons and pads — activates the brake pads, sandwiching the rotor. As the pads come into contact, they slow the spinning rotor through friction, which in turn stops the wheels.
Why install Professional Grade® calipers?
Raybestos Professional Grade® remanufactured calipers include new seals, hardware, and brake pads. This provides better caliper operation for proper brake performance.
Why do we use remanufactured calipers in repairs?
Remanufactured brake calipers use a thoroughly cleaned and inspected original equipment metal caliper housing with new brake caliper hardware and seals. Les Schwab uses Raybestos PG PLUS™ Professional Grade® premium loaded calipers or the equivalent, because they are remanufactured to be consistent with Federal Safety Standards for quality, performance, and safety. This caliper comes with Professional Grade® premium disc brake pads.
Why resurface brake rotors?
Whenever possible, we resurface rather than replace rotors, to save you money when new parts aren't necessary. Resurfacing provides a proper finish for new brake pads to mate with, helping prevent brake vibration and pulsation. When a rotor is worn beyond specifications, we install Professional Grade® replacements.
Why replace the brake fluid when performing a brake repair?
Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture, which can penetrate even sealed systems. When it does, it causes the brake fluid boiling point to lower, increasing the chances of corrosion and poor braking. We replace the brake fluid to help reduce this risk, and to prolong the life of brake components.
Drum Brake Repair and Services
- Professional-grade brake shoes
- Resurface drums
- Replace drum brake hardware
- Install new wheel cylinders
- Adjust parking brake
- Replace brake fluid
How do drum brakes work?
Drum brakes work much like disc brakes, by applying friction to a spinning surface to slow and then stop the vehicle’s momentum. In drum brakes, brake shoes press against the inside of a drum instead of a rotor to create this braking action.
Why replace the drum brake hardware?
Drum brakes work using springs which hold brake components in place and return them to position when the brakes are released. Heat affects the spring tension over time. Drum brake hardware is replaced so the brake shoes are held in the proper position, evening out wear and reducing brake drag (failure of the brakes to release completely when the driver’s foot is removed from the pedal).
Why resurface brake drums?
Whenever possible, we resurface rather than replace drums, to save you money when new parts aren’t necessary. Resurfacing the drums provides a proper finish for new brake shoes and helps prevent brake vibration and pulsation. We also offer Professional Grade® replacement drums if they are needed.
Why replace the brake fluid when performing a brake repair?
Brake fluid naturally attracts moisture, which can penetrate even sealed systems. When it does, it causes the brake fluid boiling point to lower, increasing the chances of corrosion and poor braking. We replace the brake fluid to help reduce this risk, and to prolong the life of brake components.